Planting Calendar by Zone
Pick a crop and your USDA zone band to get its planting window, whether it is a cool or warm-season crop, and its days to maturity — one at-a-glance sowing reference instead of a dozen date calculators.
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Model the real sun on your site from latitude, date and what shades it: get solar declination, noon height, day length and peak sun hours, then verify with a stick-and-shadow survey. No map or account needed.
Chlorova · updated for 2026
Enter your latitude and a date, then hit “Calculate sun” to model exposure and check it against a stick-and-shadow survey.
This models ideal sun geometry for a flat horizon using standard solar-position formulas, then discounts it by the single site-shading factor you choose. Real light also depends on terrain, the clock time and height of specific obstructions, reflected light and seasonal tree cover, none of which a latitude and one shading setting can capture. Treat the peak-sun estimate as a guide to a site's potential and confirm it with your own week of observation or the stick-and-shadow survey before committing a season to a shady corner.
A garden's single most important site variable is how much sun a spot really gets, and eyeballing it badly is why so many crops sulk. This calculator models the sun itself in your browser from plain geometry: give it your latitude and a date, tell it what shades the site, and it computes solar declination, noon height, true day length and the hours of direct sun your bed likely sees. A simple stick-and-shadow survey lets you check those numbers against the sun overhead right now, turning guesswork into measured light.
The model uses three textbook solar relationships. Declination, the sun's north-south angle for that date, is 23.45 degrees times the sine of a seasonal term, so it swings from about minus 23 in the northern winter to plus 23 in summer. Noon altitude, how high the sun climbs, is then simply 90 degrees minus the gap between your latitude and that declination.
Day length comes from the hour angle at sunrise, and peak sun is that length reduced by your site shading, so a six-hour day half-blocked by a building gives about three good hours. Shadows follow from the same noon height, since a surface throws a shadow equal to its height divided by the tangent of the sun's altitude. That is why the stick survey, angle equals arctangent of height over shadow, cross-checks the whole model against the real sky.
The exposure bands the verdict uses, the direct-sun hours each means, and the crops that reliably perform there.
| Exposure | Direct sun | Thrives there |
|---|---|---|
| Full sun | 6 or more hours | Tomato, pepper, corn, squash |
| Partial sun | 4 to 6 hours | Lettuce, spinach, chard, beets |
| Mostly shade | 2 to 4 hours | Arugula, mint, parsley, chives |
| Deep shade | Under 2 hours | Hostas and ornamentals only |
| Site shading | Sun fraction applied | Open 1.0 down to deep 0.2 |
Reach for this calculator when choosing a new bed site, diagnosing why a crop underperforms, or planning what a shady corner can actually grow through a season. It models the sun's geometry and your stated shading, so it is an estimate, not a substitute for logging real light with your own eyes over a week. For hardiness, frost and timing, pair it with the frost-date and planting-calendar tools rather than expecting sun math to cover cold.
No, the calculator works entirely from the latitude you type and the shading you describe, running the solar geometry in your browser. There is no map lookup, so you can use it anywhere, even before you have picked the exact spot.
The model assumes a clear horizon, while your yard has real obstructions, so measuring a stick's shadow gives the sun's actual angle right then. If that surveyed angle is far below the modeled noon height, something is shading your site more than you thought.
Strongly, because declination and day length shift all season, so a spot in full sun at the June solstice may drop under four hours by late autumn. Model the date you actually plant, not today's date, to judge a site fairly. A single high-summer reading badly overstates the light a spring or autumn crop will truly receive.
Yes, enter southern latitudes as negative numbers so the solar geometry resolves the right season for your location. The same math then models your summer and winter correctly without any extra settings.
Only partly, since you give an overall shading level and one obstruction height rather than exact positions on a compass. It estimates how the sun moves and how much the site loses, but a precise per-hour shadow map needs dedicated site-analysis software.
Chlorova Gardening Team
Builds, checks and documents every tool we publish
Chlorova editorial review
Checked against extension-service publications
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