Frost Date Calculator
First & last frost dates for your hardiness zone.
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Pick a crop and your USDA zone band to get its planting window, whether it is a cool or warm-season crop, and its days to maturity — one at-a-glance sowing reference instead of a dozen date calculators.
Chlorova · updated for 2026
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Windows are general guides for each zone band and assume average frost dates and typical garden microclimates; a warm wall, a frost hollow or an early snap can move any date by weeks, so confirm with your own first and last frost dates using the frost and seed-starting calculators. Days to maturity are field averages from seed catalogs and vary widely between varieties and seasons. Warm-season crops that bolt or freeze, and cool-season crops that run to seed in heat, are the reason the same crop carries very different windows across the three bands.
Figuring out when to sow usually means bouncing between a frost chart, a seed packet and a dozen single-purpose date tools. This calendar collapses that into one lookup: choose a crop and your zone band, and it returns that crop's planting window, whether it is a cool or warm-season vegetable, and its days to maturity. It is the at-a-glance sowing reference for the whole bed plan — the big-picture when-to-plant map that tells you which direction to go, while the dedicated frost and date calculators give you the exact calendar day when you need one.
This tool is a two-key reference rather than an equation. The planting window comes from a matrix whose rows are crops and whose columns are the three zone bands, so the intersection of your crop and your climate returns the specific guidance, and the season type and days to maturity are read from per-crop lookup tables keyed to the crop you pick.
Because it is a matrix, the same crop changes its answer as you move between cool, moderate and warm bands — spinach shifts from a spring sowing up north to an overwinter crop in the Gulf, exactly as any grower would expect. Nothing is computed, so there is no risk of a bad number; the job here is to surface the right window fast, then hand you to the date calculators when a precise calendar day matters more than the general rule.
The quick cool-versus-warm split that drives every planting window below, since warm-season crops wait for genuine heat while cool-season crops race the first frost. Read a crop's season here before trusting any single window, because the band flips the calendar entirely.
| Crop | Season | Typical days |
|---|---|---|
| Tomato | Warm | 80 |
| Pepper | Warm | 75 |
| Sweet Corn | Warm | 80 |
| Green Bean | Warm | 55 |
| Cucumber | Warm | 60 |
| Lettuce | Cool | 55 |
| Broccoli | Cool | 70 |
| Spinach | Cool | 45 |
Use this calendar to sketch a season and learn each crop's general window and season behavior at a glance, especially early in planning before the specifics firm up. It gives rules of thumb rather than exact dates, so once a window matters, lock the real day with the frost-date, seed-starting and succession calculators, and adjust every answer here to your site's microclimate and your chosen variety's maturity.
No. Zones describe average winter minimum temperature and hardiness, not when to sow. This calendar groups zones into broad bands only to shape a general window, but your local first and last frost dates are what actually set the precise planting day for your garden.
Because season length and heat drive timing. Spinach is a spring crop in cool zones but an overwinter crop in warm ones, since it bolts in heat, so the matrix changes the recommendation as you move between bands.
Usually from direct sowing for fast crops like beans and lettuce, and from transplanting for long-season crops like tomato and pepper. Always read the seed packet, because that reference point varies between catalogs and quietly shifts your whole schedule.
This tool is the big-picture map of when each crop broadly belongs in the ground; the seed-starting and frost-date calculators then convert that general window into an exact calendar day for your specific location. Use them together rather than treating one coarse band as a substitute for the other.
A sheltered south wall, a frost pocket or a coastal influence can move any date by weeks in either direction. Treat the window here as the average and then nudge it using what you observe on your own site each spring.
Chlorova Gardening Team
Builds, checks and documents every tool we publish
Chlorova editorial review
Checked against extension-service publications
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