Raised Bed Soil Calculator
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Convert a percolation test timing into inches per hour drainage rate, NRCS-style class and a raised-bed root-zone verdict.
Chlorova · updated for 2026
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One hole reads one spot, and percolation varies across a yard more than any single number suggests, so dig and test at least three holes in the areas that matter and treat disagreement as the answer. Standard procedure calls for pre-soaking the hole, timing after the soil is saturated, and measuring through the winter or before spring planting when the verdict actually applies. Rates near zero minutes or an unreasonably short time return dashes rather than a fake perfect score, and compacted backfill from digging can make a new bed site read far slower than the undisturbed soil beside it.
A percolation test answers the one question no soil bag or ribbon trick can: how fast does water actually leave the ground you plan to plant. Time a known depth of water soaking away, enter both numbers, and this calculator converts the stopwatch reading into inches per hour, sorts the result into the standard slow-to-fast drainage classes, and gives a plain verdict for vegetable roots. It is the difference between a confident raised-bed decision and a spring full of soggy, rotted seedlings you never see coming.
The conversion is a rate problem: the inches that disappeared divided by the hours they took. Since the timer runs in minutes, the calculator multiplies depth by sixty and divides by the elapsed minutes, so six inches gone in 120 minutes reads 6 times 60 over 120, three inches per hour.
The reciprocal, minutes per inch, prints alongside it because that is how the test is felt at the hole: twenty minutes to drink each inch tells the same story as three per hour in units your hands understand. The two band verdicts then read the rate against the standard drainage classes and against what vegetable roots tolerate, and any blank or zero input returns dashes so an unfinished test never reports as perfect drainage.
The infiltration cutoffs this calculator bands against, following the conventional soil-permeability grouping used by extension services and the NRCS. Nothing here says your soil type by name, because structure and organic matter let the same class behave differently in different yards.
| Class | Inches per hour | Typical soil | Garden meaning |
|---|---|---|---|
| Slow | under 0.10 | Heavy clay | Puddles stand for hours |
| Moderately slow | 0.10 to 0.20 | Silty clay | Spring planting runs late |
| Moderate | 0.20 to 0.60 | Loam | Fine with organic matter |
| Moderately fast | 0.60 to 2.0 | Sandy loam | Comfortable vegetable soil |
| Fast | 2.0 to 6.0 | Sandier loam | Water and nutrients leak |
| Very fast | over 6.0 | Loose sand | Irrigate little and often |
Run a perc test before building raised beds, draining a rain garden, or siting anything that cannot survive a week of saturated roots. It answers drainage only, so for fertility questions pair the result with a soil test from the extension lab, and use the soaking-hose and rain-barrel calculators to translate a slow-class verdict into watering practice.
Most vegetables want roughly half an inch to two inches per hour, the moderate through moderately fast bands, where roots get water and oxygen at once. Slower means wet feet and late spring planting; faster means you irrigate more often and feed more carefully.
In true heavy clay, an inch can take an hour or more, so a six-inch fill may stand overnight. If water is gone in under ten minutes in what you called clay, you likely tested a crack, a buried gravel seam or last year's tillage slot.
At least the depth of your intended roots, generally about a foot for beds and deeper for drainage projects, and always above any season-high water table. A shallow hole sitting above compacted pan reads far better than the soil profile will ever perform.
Yes, which is the step everyone skips. Dry soil drinks water by capillary thirst at first and drains at its real rate only once saturated, so timing the first fill measures thirst, not percolation.
Only by class of behavior, not by name, since drainage rate cannot separate silt from clay the way a ribbon or jar test can. Treat the rate as the physical verdict and use texture testing beside it for the chemical and watering picture.
Usually yes for the roots, because imported mix sits and drains like its own soil regardless of what lies beneath. They do not fix standing water around the beds, so give slow sites wide, open-sided beds and time to shed the spring surplus.
Chlorova Gardening Team
Builds, checks and documents every tool we publish
Chlorova editorial review
Checked against extension-service publications
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