Drip Irrigation Planner
Emitters, zone flow and weekly run time for drip lines.
Use ToolFree calculator
How long to run a soaker hose to apply a target depth of water to a bed.
Chlorova · updated for 2026
Quick samples
Click “Calculate” to see your results.
The output figures are per 100 feet of hose at a typical low line pressure — a shorter hose laid in a bigger bed delivers proportionally less than assumed here, and long runs lose pressure toward the far end so the tail barely weeps. Soil type changes how deep an inch actually soaks, and heavy clay that sheds water needs shorter, repeated cycles rather than one long run the calculator cannot see.
The soaker hose run time calculator answers the one question every soaker owner has — how long do I leave it on? Enter the bed area, the depth of water you want to apply and the type of soaker you own, and it returns the gallons the bed needs, your hose's approximate output, and the run time in minutes to deliver it. It works the same way a sprinkler run-time tool does, but for the slow, low-pressure weeping of a soaker line rather than overhead spray.
An inch of water over a square foot is about 0.623 gallons, so the bed's demand is the area times it times the depth you want. Your soaker's output, in gallons per hour, comes from the hose type — around forty for a standard line, sixty for a heavy weeper and twenty for a slow drip line. Run time is the demand divided by the hourly output in minutes. A one-inch soak over a thirty-two square-foot bed needs about twenty gallons, which a standard soaker delivers in roughly half an hour.
Why the output figure is only a starting point: soaker ratings assume the full hundred feet running at good line pressure, so a shorter hose or low tap pressure means less water than table implies. The honest way to calibrate is the can test — set a few open containers across the bed, run the hose for a fixed time, and measure what landed. That single check turns an estimate into a schedule tuned to your own soil, slope and pressure.
Approximate gallons per hour and the run time to apply one inch over a forty square-foot bed for common soaker types. Actual output varies with line pressure and hose length, so treat these as a first guess and confirm with a can test in your own garden.
| Soaker type | Gal per hour | Min for 1 in / 40 sq ft |
|---|---|---|
| Standard porous | 40 | 37 |
| Heavy weeper | 60 | 25 |
| Drip line | 20 | 74 |
| Wall-of-water | 30 | 50 |
Use it to set a watering schedule for an established soaker line over a known bed area. For designing how many emitters a drip zone can support or sizing mainline, use the drip-irrigation planner, and for overhead spray use the sprinkler run-time calculator. If you do not yet know how much water is coming out of the tap at all, run the bucket-test flow calculator first, then bring the real pressure into the can test that backs up these minutes.
Long enough to apply about one inch of water, which for a standard soaker over a typical raised bed is roughly half an hour. The exact figure depends on your bed area and the hose's real output, so do a can test and confirm rather than trusting the catalog rating.
Roughly twenty to sixty gallons per hour depending on type — a slow drip line near twenty, a standard porous hose near forty, and a heavy weeper up to sixty. All are per hundred feet at good pressure, so a shorter hose uses proportionally less.
For most vegetables and established beds, yes — about an inch a week sinking to root depth is the standard. Hot, windy or sandy conditions push it higher, while heavy clay that holds water often needs the same volume split into more frequent, shorter soaks.
No. Soakers work best at low pressure so water seeps evenly along the whole line. High pressure blasts out of the first few feet, starves the far end, and wastes the water you were trying to deliver slowly to the roots.
Because pressure drops along a long hose, so the tail barely weeps. Keep runs shorter, split into two feed lines from the middle, or accept a longer run time and verify coverage with a can test placed out at the far end.
You do not have to, but covering it with mulch or a light layer of soil pays off. The cover cuts evaporation loss, shields the hose from sun, and moves the water straight down into the root zone instead of pooling on the surface where it only dries out.
Chlorova Gardening Team
Builds, checks and documents every tool we publish
Chlorova editorial review
Checked against extension-service publications
Emitters, zone flow and weekly run time for drip lines.
Use ToolMinutes per session to deliver one inch of water.
Use ToolPocket count, saturated wall weight against your mount limit, and daily irrigation litres for a fabric, pipe, stacked or trellis vertical garden.
Use ToolPrice a drip or micro spray irrigation install as materials, zoning and trenching, DIY against contractor, with payback years.
Use Tool