Garden Yield Estimator
Predict your harvest from your planting plan.
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Fit the right number of plants in every square foot.
Chlorova · updated for 2026
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Grid estimate assuming square spacing. Intercropping and wide-row methods fit more — treat this as the conservative count.
A plant spacing calculator answers the seed-packet question that decides your harvest: how many mature plants physically fit in a bed at a given on-center spacing. Multiply each bed dimension by twelve, divide by the spacing, round down, and multiply — a 4x8 bed at 12-inch spacing holds 32 lettuce heads, while 18-inch kale fits only 10. Guess too tight and you grow small plants with mildew; guess too loose and you waste expensive soil. The planner converts inches into plant counts instantly, so the number of seedlings you start matches the bed you actually have.
The planner divides each bed dimension by the spacing, rounds down to whole plants, then multiplies the two counts: plants = floor(length × 12 ÷ spacing) × floor(width × 12 ÷ spacing). Rounding down matters — a 4-foot side at 18-inch spacing fits two plants, not three, because the third would hang its mature canopy over the edge.
The result assumes a square grid, the most conservative layout. Triangular (offset) spacing fits roughly 15 percent more plants in the same area, and wide-row intensive methods fit more still, so treat the number as a floor, not a ceiling. Plants per square foot is simply the count divided by the area — the figure seed-packet density charts are built on.
Conservative counts for the two most common bed sizes at typical spacings. Real beds with trellises or supports fit fewer; use these to compare crops, then run your exact size through the calculator.
| Spacing | 4x4 bed | 4x8 bed | Plants/sq ft (4x8) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 3 in | 256 | 512 | 16.0 |
| 6 in | 64 | 128 | 4.0 |
| 12 in | 16 | 32 | 1.0 |
| 18 in | 4 | 10 | 0.31 |
| 24 in | 4 | 8 | 0.25 |
| 36 in | 1 | 2 | 0.06 |
This square-grid math suits intensive, permanent-bed gardening where you plant blocks instead of long farm rows — which is how most home raised beds work. It undercounts single-row field plantings, and it over-optimizes for sprawling vines like squash and watermelon that need 20 to 32 square feet per hill; give those their own patch outside this calculator. When two crops want the same ground at different stages, trust the more restrictive spacing and grow fewer, bigger plants.
Start with the packet's on-center number, since it is written for full-size mature plants. Square-foot gardening charts are denser because they assume deep, rich, constrained raised-bed soil where the same crop tops out in less room.
No — enter only the length and width you can actually plant, not the full frame. Subtract trellis lines, supports and walking strips before calculating, because those squares never hold a crop.
The planner rounds down to whole plants on a strict square grid, the most conservative assumption. A staggered triangular layout fits roughly 15 percent more, turning 10 kale plants into 11 or 12.
Run each crop separately at its own spacing and add the results, assigning each a section of the bed. The planner does not overlay two grids, so leave a buffer where the zones meet.
Closer than charts allow is exactly the wrong direction — restricted root depth means using the wider end of a crop's range. Leafy greens are the exception: they tolerate shallow soil and tight spacing well.
Yes — competing plants fight for light, water and nutrients, and every one of them ends up smaller. Crowding also keeps foliage wet, which is how fungal problems start on tomatoes and squash. Losing a plant to mildew costs more than the half-plant you saved space for.
Chlorova Gardening Team
Builds, checks and documents every tool we publish
Chlorova editorial review
Checked against extension-service publications
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