Potting Soil Calculator
Liters and bags of potting mix for any number of pots.
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Size a greenhouse or high tunnel: grow area, heating load and the ventilation CFM the glazing demands.
Chlorova · updated for 2026
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Click “Calculate” to see your results.
The heating figure is a rough rule-of-thumb load (footprint times a glazing U-factor times the design temperature rise), not a Manual J heat-loss calculation, and it ignores wind, foundation and shade loss. Ventilation uses a common twelve air-exchanges-per-minute heuristic rather than a certified fan curve, and usable grow area assumes about thirty-five percent is lost to walls, benches and paths. Treat every number here as a budgeting starting point and confirm equipment sizes against your climate, local code and the manufacturer rating before you buy a heater or fan.
A greenhouse is easy to sketch and easy to under-equip, because the frame is only the start of the decision. This greenhouse sizing calculator turns a footprint into the numbers that actually cost money: usable grow area, the heating load your cover creates, and the ventilation airflow it demands. Choose your glazing, enter the length and width and a design temperature rise, and it scales all three so you can budget a heater and fans before the first panel goes up.
Footprint is simply length times width, and the usable grow area takes sixty-five percent of it, since walls, benches, paths and the door eat the rest. The heating load multiplies that footprint by the glazing U-factor and the design temperature rise, a rule-of-thumb that says how many BTU per hour leak out on the coldest night you plan to heat against.
The U-factor comes from the covering, not the frame, which is why double-inflated poly at roughly zero point six-five heats far cheaper than single glass near one point oh-four for the same box. Ventilation uses a common twelve air-exchanges-per-minute estimate tied to floor area so a summer afternoon does not cook the crop. These are sizing heuristics for budgeting gear, not certified load or fan curves, so confirm the final equipment against your real climate and the manufacturer's rated output at your test temperature.
Insulating value of common greenhouse coverings, shown as the U-factor the calculator uses for each glazing choice. Lower is warmer per square foot, so the same house and temperature rise cost less to heat as this number drops.
| Covering | U-factor (Btu/hr·ft²·°F) | Heat loss vs double poly |
|---|---|---|
| Double-inflated poly | 0.65 | baseline |
| Twin-wall polycarb | 0.82 | about 26% more |
| Single glass | 1.04 | about 60% more |
| Single poly film | 1.13 | about 74% more |
Use it early to budget a greenhouse or high tunnel, when you know the footprint and covering and want the heating and ventilation cost that implies. It sizes systems, not crops, so plan the plants and spacing with the garden planner, and work out how much bench soil you need with the potting soil calculator. For a passive cold frame you never heat, or a certified commercial build needing a Manual J load and engineered fan curve, this rule-of-thumb is the wrong tool.
Multiply the floor area by your glazing U-factor and the temperature rise you want to hold. A 200 square foot glass house kept 30 °F above outside needs roughly 200 × 1.04 × 30, or about 6,200 BTU per hour, before you add any wind or foundation losses.
In all but the mildest climates, usually yes, because the trapped air layer nearly halves heat loss for a small extra cost. The savings show up every winter month, and the film is cheap enough that the payback on a heated house is fast.
A common target is to exchange all the air about once a minute on a hot day, which this tool estimates as twelve CFM per square foot of floor. Size exhaust fans to that number, then let passive inlets make up the difference so the fans do not starve for makeup air.
Because walls, benches, aisles, the door and the curved edges of a tunnel all eat floor you cannot plant. Assuming about sixty-five percent is actually growable keeps a bed plan realistic instead of overstocking the house.
No, it only reports the square footage you can grow in, not the plant count. Take that usable area into a spacing or garden-planning calculator to turn square feet into how many rows and crops actually fit.
Use the gap between your target growing temperature and your region's coldest design night, not an average winter low. That worst-case rise is what the heater must hold, so sizing to it prevents the single night when the crop is actually at risk.
Chlorova Gardening Team
Builds, checks and documents every tool we publish
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