Frost Date Calculator
First & last frost dates for your hardiness zone.
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Read a forecast temperature against your crop's kill point for a damage verdict, frost severity class and cover recommendations.
Chlorova · updated for 2026
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Kill temperatures describe roughly a quarter-hour of exposure, so a two-hour plunge at 30 does far more damage than a five-minute brush at 31, and wind, humidity and how fast the morning warps up all rewrite the outcome. Forecasts report screen height, while cold air drains and pools several feet lower, so the frost hollow at the bottom of your slope sees numbers colder than this page ever shows. Uncovered plants against a still, clear-sky radiation frost behave worst of all, and the verdict bands are triage guidance, not a guarantee either way.
A frost forecast is only useful once you translate it into your plants' currency, and that currency is degrees past a kill point nobody quite agrees on. This calculator takes the predicted overnight low, subtracts the threshold for the crop you are actually standing in front of, and returns the margin, a damage verdict, the severity class of the night and a cover strategy that fits the number. It is the four-second decision between running inside with relief and losing the whole back tomato bed before breakfast.
The core line is a subtraction: forecast low minus the crop's kill point. Tomatoes and peppers die near 32, squash vines a degree lower, hardy greens down around 26, and most fruit tree blossom candles out near 28 in full bloom. A positive margin buys degrees of safety, a zero margin is a cover-everything night, and three degrees below means the plants are already lost wherever fabric never touched them.
The second band ignores your crop entirely and classifies the air itself, following the standard light, moderate and severe frost cutoffs at 32, 28 and 24. The two bands disagree sometimes on purpose, because a 29-degree night is a light frost in the weather book yet a death sentence for an uncovered pepper, and reading both is exactly how gardeners learn which fights to cover for.
Approximate quarter-hour lethal temperatures for the crop classes here, alongside the meteorological frost severity cutoffs the second band applies. Blossom tolerance tightens as flowers open: tight buds ride several degrees lower than full bloom or small fruit.
| Reading | Temperature | What it means |
|---|---|---|
| Tender crops kill | 32°F | Tomato, pepper, squash done if naked |
| Squash vines kill | 31°F | One degree lower, same obituary |
| Blossom damage | 28°F | Full bloom fruit sets lost |
| Hardy greens kill | 26°F | Lettuce and spinach covered survive lower |
| Light frost | 30 to 32°F | Tender plants in danger |
| Moderate frost | 26 to 29°F | Half-hardy crops killed |
| Severe freeze | under 26°F | Perennial roots in shallow pots at risk |
Open it the afternoon of any frost or freeze warning during shoulder season, when one subtraction decides the evening's chores. It handles single nights, not seasons, so for fall and spring date planning use the frost-date calculator, and let the hoop-structure sizing tool make next year's cover permanent rather than a nightly scramble.
Not fatally, but it is the last comfortable night, because sustained time under 32 kills the plant and 35 with clear still air can still mean a frost on the foliage itself. Cover or harvest-rescue when the low lands in the 30s.
No, exposure time rewrites everything: five minutes at 30 may brush a tomato while two hours at 31 finishes it. Wind direction, humidity and how fast morning thaw arrives all move the effective kill point a degree or three.
Floating row covers buy roughly two to four degrees on a clear still radiation night, which is precisely why a plus-three margin band reads cutting it fine rather than safe. Against a wind-driven advection freeze they help far less, since they only slow the air exchange.
The fruit you harvest green will ripen indoors, so cut and rescue mature-green tomatoes the morning you find blackened foliage. The plants themselves rarely recover a true kill, and leaving spent vines only feeds next spring's disease.
Woven fabric blankets breathe, hold a dead-air layer and can touch soil without glazing the plant, while plastic sheeting transfers cold directly and needs hoops. Fabric plus a mulched, watered bed outperforms bare plastic in almost every garden scenario.
Because chilled night air is dense and drains downhill like water, pooling several degrees below the surrounding grade in hollows and behind fences. The forecast samples air at four feet in an open shed; your bottom of the slope is a different thermometer.
Chlorova Gardening Team
Builds, checks and documents every tool we publish
Chlorova editorial review
Checked against extension-service publications
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