Frost Date Calculator
First & last frost dates for your hardiness zone.
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Compare your winter's accumulated chill hours against a variety's requirement for a percent-of-need verdict on budbreak reliability.
Chlorova · updated for 2026
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Your hours-received figure should come from a nearby weather-station chill model or your own winter log, not a feeling, and counting methods differ: the classic below-45-range, the Utah model that discounts warm spells, and simplifications in between. Variety requirements listed are common nursery figures that shift with rootstock, tree age and climate. A tree can carry too little chill and still leaf out, then bloom over weeks with poor fruit set, which is the failure mode buyers misattribute to frost or disease.
Fruit trees keep a winter ledger, and a peach that never sees enough hours below forty-five degrees will leaf, bloom and disappoint you regardless of how carefully it is pruned, fed and sprayed. This calculator compares your winter's chill accumulation against a specific variety's requirement, returning the percent of need met, a plain verdict on reliability, and the size of any shortfall in hours. It is the check to run before ordering trees online, not after three years of blind buds and stubborn, staggered blooms.
The arithmetic is a division dressed in orchard clothing: received hours over required hours times a hundred. Six hundred winter hours against Redhaven's 850 is about 71 percent, the number that decides whether the tree will behave or sulk. The second line simply subtracts, flooring at zero, because a surplus is not a debt and the box must not report negative shortfall.
The verdict bands read the same percent against the ranges nurserymen and extension fruit specialists work with. Below 70 the tree will usually fail in some visible way; between 70 and 90 you are gambling on mild winters; up to about 115 is comfort; beyond that the chill is no longer the worry, and erratic dormancy release from warm spells becomes the thing to watch instead.
Chill requirements for the varieties this picker covers, in hours below 45°F, the classic range most nurseries quote. Requirements are floors rather than ceilings per method, and the same cultivar can differ a few hundred hours between sources counting warm spells differently.
| Variety | Type | Hours (classic) | Winter it suits |
|---|---|---|---|
| Granny Smith | Apple | 1,000 | Cold or high elevation |
| Honeycrisp | Apple | 900 | Cold to solidly cool |
| Duke | Blueberry | 800-1,000 | Upper south and north |
| Redhaven | Peach | 850 | Solid winter climates |
| Bing | Sweet cherry | 800 | Cold winters, mild springs |
| Goldcot | Apricot | 600 | Cool but early-bloom risk |
| Sunpride | Peach | 450 | Mild southern winters |
Run it before ordering any perennial fruit, when comparing varieties for a new site, or when diagnosing years of staggered bloom. It answers the winter side only, so pair it with the frost-date calculator for the spring side, and in genuinely marginal zones talk to your extension fruit specialist before committing ten years to one tree.
Most states publish modeled chill-hour maps or station-based tools, typically counting hours below 45°F from November through February. As a regional shortcut, the Gulf coast sees 200 to 400, the mid-Atlantic and upper south 500 to 800, and true cold zones clear 1,000 most winters.
The tree leafs late or not at all, then blooms in a stretched, uneven fog over weeks with poor fruit set, and the affected buds simply die blind. It is not instant death, which is exactly why people grow a high-chill tree for years before diagnosing it.
Generally no, because surplus chill is rarely the failure mode in cold climates for low-chill cultivars. The real risk is the opposite: a mild winter followed by a warm February can push an early-break, low-chill tree into bloom ahead of a late frost.
Because the counting methods disagree more than the trees do, with the classic below-45 range crediting hours the stricter Utah model deducts after warm spells. Ask which method a requirement uses before trusting a percent from either figure.
Usually yes, and that swap is the standard answer to a shortfall, moving from Redhaven to Sunpride or from a 1,000-hour apple to a 500-hour one. Expect the mild-winter varieties to trade some flavor and keeping quality, which is what the breeding paid for.
Northern highbush blueberries sit squarely in the 800 to 1,000 hour band, similar to classic peaches, while southern types drop toward 300 or 400. Rabbiteyes are the low-chill branch of the blueberry family, which is why the same fruit works across very different winter zones.
Chlorova Gardening Team
Builds, checks and documents every tool we publish
Chlorova editorial review
Checked against extension-service publications
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