Garden Area Calculator
Square footage of a rectangle, triangle, circle or oval bed, plus the soil, mulch and plant counts that follow.
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Size a weed barrier roll order and the edging, staples and cost that go with it, including the overlap you lose to seams.
Chlorova · updated for 2026
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Click “Calculate” to see your results.
Roll sizes and prices are typical retail figures and change by supplier and season, so confirm the gauge and warranty on the box you are buying. Coverage includes a seam allowance but not waste around curves, which can add another tenth on a fussy bed. Fabric is a weed management tool, not a substitute for mulch depth or weeding, and it degrades soils that need organic matter by cutting them off from it. Check local rules before using plastic film on a bed that will later count as green infrastructure.
Fabric orders go wrong in two places: the seam and the edge. Buy the exact square footage and you will run short the moment two strips have to overlap, and leave the perimeter unpinned and the wind will peel your work up by the first autumn storm. This calculator sizes the roll count from the bed area plus an overlap allowance, then counts staples by perimeter and edging sticks by their length, so the whole hardware order arrives together. It prices each part separately so you can see what you are really paying.
The roll count comes from area with slack added for seams: bed area times one plus the overlap percent, divided by the roll area of width times length, rounded up because nobody sells half a roll. Fabric is bought by area but laid by length, so the footage you unroll is the adjusted area divided by roll width, which is the number to mark out on the ground.
Pins and edging follow the perimeter instead, which is why a long narrow border costs more to lay than a square one of the same area. Staples go at the spacing you choose plus extra at every seam; edging sticks are the perimeter divided by stick length, rounded up. Total cost is fabric plus edging plus staples, and dividing it by bed area gives the true installed price per square foot.
Roll size, coverage before seams, rough service life and the job each one suits.
| Material | Roll ft | Roll sq ft | Years | Use it for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Spunbond | 3 by 50 | 150 | 8 | Planted beds |
| Woven cloth | 3 by 50 | 150 | 5 | Gravel paths |
| Heavy 5 ft | 5 by 50 | 250 | 10 | Long borders |
| Black plastic | 10 by 100 | 1000 | 2 | Solarization |
| Jute matting | 2.5 by 50 | 125 | 1 | Slope erosion |
| Cardboard | 4 by 25 | 100 | 0.5 | Sheet mulching |
Use it when planning a new border, laying gravel or a path base, sheet mulching a lawn into a bed, or edging a large planting where hand weeding is expensive. Pair it with the garden area calculator to measure an odd shaped bed, the mulch depth calculator for what goes on top, the sheet mulch calculator for the cardboard route, and the landscape rock calculator when the fabric is going under stone.
Six inches is the working answer, which on a three foot roll is about a tenth of your coverage, so the default ten percent allowance is close to right. Overlap more on windy sites and on anything you will walk beside. Butt seams never work, since the gap widens as the fabric shrinks.
Because edging is sold in short rigid sticks priced per piece, and the perimeter of a typical border is long relative to its area. A 200 square foot bed with a 60 ft edge needs fifteen sticks, which comfortably outweighs two rolls of cloth. Buy the cloth after you have priced the edge.
No. It blocks weeds germinating below it for as long as it stays intact and light tight, typically a handful of years. Seed blown onto the fabric grows in the grit that collects on top, and seams let light through long before the material itself fails.
Cardboard where you want soil improvement and can cover it properly, fabric where you want a long lived barrier under gravel or on a path. Cardboard smothers for one season and then feeds worms, while fabric preserves a clean line but slowly seals the soil from water and air. Many gardeners use both, cardboard in beds and fabric in paths.
About every two feet along the edge, and add one on each side of every seam. Loose or sloping ground and windy sites justify one foot spacing. Staples are cheap enough that buying twice what you think you need is the correct approach.
You can, but water then pools above the emitters unless the fabric is genuinely permeable, and you lose sight of leaks and clogged lines. The better layout is irrigation under the fabric with the fabric cut back at each emitter, or irrigation on the surface above a cardboard layer.
Chlorova Gardening Team
Builds, checks and documents every tool we publish
Chlorova editorial review
Checked against extension-service publications
Square footage of a rectangle, triangle, circle or oval bed, plus the soil, mulch and plant counts that follow.
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