Compost Ratio Calculator
Dial in the ideal green-to-brown compost balance.
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Turn a soil test into pounds of nutrients per bed.
Chlorova · updated for 2026
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Soil-test based estimates. Always split heavy nitrogen doses and water in — more is not better. Follow your extension lab's report.
The NPK calculator turns a soil-test recommendation into something you can pour: pounds of product for your bed. Fertilizer advice arrives as pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet, but nobody gardens in thousands — so a 4x8 tomato bed at a 2 lb recommendation needs 0.064 lb of actual N, which at 4% in a bagged organic blend works out to 1.6 lb of product. The math is one division of nutrient wanted by nutrient sold, and skipping it is how gardens alternate between starving and burning.
Two lines of arithmetic: N needed (lb) = area ÷ 1,000 × rate, and product (lb) = N needed × 100 ÷ N%. The N% is the first number of the bag's label — 4-4-4 is 4% nitrogen by weight — and it is why a 50 lb bag of 21% lawn fertilizer carries five times the nitrogen of the same weight of 4% garden blend. Organic labels state a guaranteed minimum analysis, so real nutrient content often lands a little higher.
The lab's rate already accounts for your crop, soil texture and organic matter, which is exactly why you divide by it instead of freelancing. If your report speaks in lb per acre, divide by 43.56 to get lb per 1,000 sq ft before entering it.
The first NPK number is the N% by weight. Same bed, same test rate, wildly different amounts of product. The handful-per-plant example above takes about 3 lb of pelleted manure at 2% N but only a couple of ounces of urea at 46% — which is why the label, not a scoop habit, should drive the application.
| Product | N% |
|---|---|
| Composted manure, pelleted | 1–3 |
| Alfalfa meal | 2–3 |
| Bone meal | 1 |
| Blood meal | 12 |
| Soybean meal | 7 |
| 10-10-10 | 10 |
| 21-0-0 lawn-type | 21 |
| Urea | 46 |
This is a bed-scale tool for in-ground and raised beds, driven by a soil test, and it handles any dry product's nitrogen. For liquid feeds and compost tea, use dilution math in ppm instead; houseplants work per-gallon. If you have no test yet, a flat 1.5 lb per 1,000 sq ft is the usual fallback for fruiting vegetables — but the soil test costs less than one bag of fertilizer and it also covers pH, P and K.
Typically 1 to 2 lb of N per 1,000 sq ft for fruiting vegetables, less for roots and legumes. A 4x8 bed is only 3.2 percent of 1,000 sq ft, so the true amount is ounces of nutrient, not pounds.
Product weight is what you pour; actual N is what the plant gets. A 4% product delivers 0.04 lb of nitrogen per pound applied, and the calculator simply divides the need by that fraction.
Usually, yes. Excess nitrogen buys leaves at the expense of fruit, can burn roots with salts, and runs off to streams. Under-feeding shows as pale, slow growth and is fixable within days with a side-dress.
You can, if you scale by its N% and keep total nitrogen at vegetable rates. Check the label for bloom-and-feed combinations that contain pre-emergent herbicide — those have no place in food beds.
That is the farm unit, still common in lab outputs. One acre is 43,560 sq ft, so divide lb per acre by 43.56 to convert to lb per 1,000 sq ft, then enter the result — the recommendation is identical, only the denominator changes.
Yes, at roughly 1% slow-release N — a three-inch layer across a bed can cover most of a light crop's need. That is why labs lower the purchased-N recommendation when organic matter is high: count the compost first, then subtract from the bag rate rather than stacking both in full.
Chlorova Gardening Team
Builds, checks and documents every tool we publish
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Checked against extension-service publications
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