Compost Ratio Calculator
Dial in the ideal green-to-brown compost balance.
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How big a compost bin you need, in cubic feet, from your kitchen scraps and yard waste.
Chlorova · updated for 2026
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Bin sizing is a starting volume, not a guarantee of hot compost — a pile under about 27 cubic feet (3 × 3 × 3) will not hold heat no matter how you manage the carbon-to-nitrogen balance, and a bin far too big turns slow because you cannot reach the center. The fill-rate factor accounts only for the air space active composting needs; actual finished volume is roughly a third of what goes in.
The compost bin size calculator turns your weekly kitchen scraps and seasonal yard waste into the bin volume you actually need to build, so you do not end up with a heap that overflows by midsummer or a giant cage you never fill enough to heat. Choose a hot two-bin system or a cold single bin, enter roughly how much you generate, and it returns total cubic feet, the volume per bin, and a ballpark material cost. A three-by-three-by-three bin holds twenty-seven cubic feet, which is the smallest pile that will run hot.
Material per year is your weekly kitchen volume times fifty-two plus the season's yard waste. Because active compost is fluffy and needs air, you divide that by a fill rate — about half for a hot system you turn, three-quarters for a cold pile that settles dense. A hot garden runs on two bins so one can cook while the other fills, and the total is split between them. Cost is simply the bin count times what you pay per bin.
Why the minimum size matters: a hot pile cooks itself with microbial heat, and if it is smaller than roughly three feet on each side it loses heat faster than the bugs make it, staying cold and slow. That is why a small household often does better with a single cold bin or a tumbler than with an undersized hot box it can never get to temperature. Oversizing is the opposite failure — a bin so large you cannot turn the middle.
Common bin footprints and the rough annual household they fit. Remember that a hot pile needs about twenty-seven cubic feet minimum just to reach and hold its own heat, so tiny bins stay cold.
| Bin footprint | Cubic feet | Good for |
|---|---|---|
| 2 × 2 × 2 ft | 8 | Vermicompost, small indoor |
| 3 × 3 × 3 ft | 27 | One-couple hot bin minimum |
| 4 × 4 × 3 ft | 48 | Family cold bin |
| Two 4 × 4 × 4 bins | 128 | Active hot-turning setup |
Use it before you buy or build so the bin fits a real year of material rather than a hopeful weekend. It sizes the container, not the recipe — for the carbon-to-nitrogen balance and brown-to-green ratios, use the compost ratio calculator once the bin is right. If you only need to work out how much finished compost to spread on beds, jump to the soil amendment and mulch-depth tools instead, which start from garden area rather than waste volume.
A typical four-person kitchen plus yard usually needs a hot two-bin system around a hundred to a hundred and fifty cubic feet total, or two four-by-four bins. A single cold bin of about forty-eight cubic feet handles the same load if you do not mind waiting a year.
About three feet by three feet by three feet, which is roughly twenty-seven cubic feet. Below that the surface area loses microbial heat faster than it is generated, and the pile stays cold and slow no matter how well you balance the ingredients.
For hot composting, yes — one bin fills while the other cooks, so you always have somewhere to add fresh material without restarting the heating pile. A cold single bin is fine because you are just stockpiling and letting it break down on its own schedule.
Roughly a third of the volume you put in, once the easy water and carbon burn off. A bin fed a hundred and fifty cubic feet of raw material finishes as about fifty cubic feet of dark compost, which is plenty for several raised beds.
It works, but tumblers are small — most top out near fifty cubic feet — and you cannot build a proper hot pile in many of them. They shine for apartment kitchens and short batches, not for a whole property of leaves and clippings.
That is normal in autumn. The fix is a spare leaf cage or letting the excess cure in a corner, not building a bin big enough to swallow the worst week of the year — that would just sit half-empty the other forty-eight weeks.
Chlorova Gardening Team
Builds, checks and documents every tool we publish
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Checked against extension-service publications
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