Feed a Family Planner
Work backwards from your household to the rows and bed size each crop needs.
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Plan a garden for food rather than money by working out the calories a bed grows, the days of eating it covers and the ground one person needs.
Chlorova · updated for 2026
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Calorie and weight figures are what a well managed intensive home bed of each crop can be expected to produce, and a first attempt, a dry season or poor soil will land below them. Feeding a household on calories alone ignores protein, fat and micronutrient balance, which is why a real pantry plan pairs a calorie crop with beans, grains, fruit and something animal. The one person per year figure is an energy arithmetic rather than a diet, and most subsistence guides build on a mix of crops plus storage, livestock and bought staples such as flour and oil.
A garden planned for food is measured differently from one planned for savings, because the useful unit is calories rather than dollars. Salad leaves earn well at market and feed nobody through February, while a bed of potatoes looks unimpressive on a receipt and covers weeks of eating. This planner converts a crop and a bed count into the energy a season grows, the days of eating that represents, and the unglamorous number of square feet one adult actually needs for a year.
Each crop carries a seasonal calorie figure per square foot of bed, which is the weight a well run plot yields multiplied by the energy density of that food. Potatoes sit near 580 kcal per square foot, dry beans at 240 despite being far richer per pound, and roots around 130, which is the honest reason a subsistence plan leans on tubers.
Season calories are that figure times total area and the number of plantings. Days of food divides those calories by the daily need you entered, and people fed divides again by the storage window you want the harvest to cover. The reverse calculation is the sobering one: daily need times three hundred sixty five, over calories per square foot, gives the ground that feeds one adult for a year on that single crop.
What a competently managed intensive home bed of each crop produces in a season, showing why the staples that fill a pantry are the ones that carry energy per foot rather than per pound.
| Crop | kcal per sq ft | lb per sq ft | kcal per lb | Days to harvest |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Potato | 580 | 1.9 | 305 | 95 |
| Sweet potato | 390 | 1.0 | 390 | 110 |
| Corn as ears | 400 | 1.2 | 333 | 100 |
| Dry beans | 240 | 0.15 | 1600 | 90 |
| Winter squash | 135 | 0.9 | 150 | 100 |
| Carrots | 130 | 0.7 | 186 | 70 |
Use it when a household is deciding how much ground to prepare for food, when comparing potatoes against squash or beans for limited beds, when planning a pantry that must last past the fresh season, and when a garden looks generous on the table but you want to know how far it really goes. Pair it with the feed a family planner for whole season menus, the garden cost and savings estimator for the money view, the plants per square foot calculator for spacing, and the succession planting calculator to fit a second crop in.
On a single calorie crop, somewhere between one thousand and one thousand five hundred square feet for a year of eating at two thousand calories a day. Intensive guides quote three hundred to four hundred for a varied diet that assumes bought staples, and that difference is almost entirely grain and oil purchased rather than grown.
Potatoes, comfortably, at roughly five hundred eighty calories per square foot of a season, with sweet potatoes and corn near four hundred. Dry beans carry far more per pound but weigh so little per bed that they rank below, which is why they are grown for protein rather than energy.
Rarely for calorie crops, since potatoes and squash use the whole frost free season. It works well for fast roots, greens and bush beans, where a spring crop and an autumn crop can each fill half a bed, and the arithmetic here lets you enter the plantings to see the effect.
Because they count harvest rather than eating, and a pantry loses weight to sprouting, rot, drying and weevils, while a first garden often halves a published yield. Assume a fifth gone, then judge whether the beds you have still cover the season you planned.
A large one can contribute substantially, but almost nobody does it on vegetable ground alone, since cooking fat, flour and winter protein are hard to grow at household scale. The realistic goal is a grocery bill that bends rather than disappears, plus food whose quality you cannot buy.
Plan by what you actually eat, then check it against calories. A household that eats little potato will not be fed by a potato field, and the useful move is to grow the calorie crop your kitchen already buys, so the harvest replaces real meals rather than aspirational ones.
Chlorova Gardening Team
Builds, checks and documents every tool we publish
Chlorova editorial review
Checked against extension-service publications
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