Flower Bed Planner
Plant count, bed area, edging length and mulch volume for a flower bed.
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How many spring bulbs to buy for a bed, by bulb type, area and pack size.
Chlorova · updated for 2026
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Density is a per-square-foot average that works for a formal mass planting; a naturalized or scattered look in the same bed uses the same total but reads looser, and drifts leave gaps that lower the effective count. Bulb size within a type shifts spacing too — a jumbo tulip wants a touch more room than the standard figure, and small crocus can sit tighter, so treat these counts as a starting shopping number.
The flower bulb spacing calculator converts a bed's area and a bulb type into the number of bulbs — and the packs to order — for a fall planting, so you buy the right quantity before the best stock sells out. Tulips, daffodils, crocus and alliums each want a different spacing, so the same bed takes wildly different counts depending on what you plant. Choose the bulb, enter the square footage and your pack size and price, and it returns bulbs, packs, cost and a planting-depth note for that type.
Each bulb type has a natural planting density expressed as bulbs per square foot: tulips about two, daffodils one, crocus four and alliums half. Multiply that density by the bed area and round up to get the bulbs you need. Packs is that count divided by your pack size, rounded up, and cost is the pack count times the price. A thirty square-foot tulip bed at two per foot needs sixty bulbs, which is six ten-bulb packs.
Why density follows mature spacing: a bulb left at the right distance fills in and can be lifted or naturalized without crowding, while bulbs jammed past their spacing compete for water and root room, come up blind, and need dividing early. The per-foot figures here come straight from each type's recommended gap — six inches for tulips, twelve for daffodils, three for crocus, eighteen for alliums — so the count reflects how the planting actually looks a season later, not how tight it can be squeezed on day one.
Recommended in-ground spacing and the resulting bulbs per square foot for the four common types here. Use the density column to sanity-check the count, and remember bigger jumbo bulbs of the same type want a little more room than the standard figure implies.
| Bulb | Spacing | Bulbs per sq ft |
|---|---|---|
| Tulip | 6 in | 2 |
| Daffodil | 12 in | 1 |
| Crocus | 3 in | 4 |
| Allium | 18 in | 0.5 |
Use it in early fall to size a spring-bloom bulb order for a known bed area before the good stock sells out. It is about bulbs, not annual flowers or vegetables — for those use the flower bed planner or the plant-spacing tools, which think in plants rather than underground storage organs. For a naturalizing scheme meant to spread over years, plant on the low end of the count and let the bulbs multiply into the space themselves.
About two bulbs per square foot at a six-inch spacing, so a twenty square-foot border takes around forty bulbs. Order a few extra to cover rodent loss and the soft bulbs you toss at planting.
Roughly three times the height of the bulb, pointed end up. That works for tulips, daffodils and most spring bulbs; small crocus go shallower and big alliums deeper. Depth gives the bulb the chill and root room it needs to flower.
About one, at a twelve-inch spacing, because daffodils are larger and naturalize by spreading between the gaps over the years. Planting them at the full space lets the colony thicken on its own without lifting and dividing.
Buy in September while the selection is full, and plant in the fall once nights are cool but before the ground freezes hard. Bulbs need a run of cold winter weeks to bloom, so a late planting still works as long as the soil has not frozen solid.
Very often, yes — tulips are a favorite. Daffodils, alliums and fritillaria are usually left alone because they are toxic or fragrant, so plant those where rodents rule and protect tulips with netting or grow them in containers.
No — leave the foliage until it yellows and falls over on its own. The leaves recharge the bulb for next spring, and cutting them early starves it, which is the most common reason a once-good bulb bed goes blind the following year.
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